Running into an old friend

After roaming Phnom Penh for a morning, I wasn’t feeling too well. My back was hurting (I strained it a week and a half ago, and it’s gonna take some time before it will be completely back to normal) and besides that, I was suffering from some thing that some women suffer from approximately every month, but about which I won’t go into detail, so the guys reading my blog won’t freak out.

Suffice it to say, I was not feeling so well. I went back to the hostel and waited there until it was time to get to my bus, which would take me to Kampot. I was feeling bummed, because I wanted to see more of the city. I was also feeling bummed because there was an earlier bus which I could have taken, and which a bunch of the people from my hostel took.

But when the time came for me to go to the bus terminal (which was really just an office), I was feeling a bit better. I walked in and looked next to me, seeing a guy in sunglasses that looked slightly like somebody I knew. This happens to me a lot while I’m traveling… I guess it’s my brains way of telling me I’m missing my friends.

So I walk over to the counter to ask about my bus and they tell me to just sit and wait. So I do. I put my stuff down and sit in one of the chairs, while sneaking peeks at the guy sitting there. He looks so much like him…

I open my Facebook app, to just look him up and see if maybe he could be in the area. He’s currently living in Vietnam, so it’s not that much of a stretch… But it still is.

And what do you know, he put on Facebook that he was going to Cambodia for a few days… But it couldn’t be. It could not be possible that I am actually bumping into somebody I know all the way across the world. It is not possible. It just isn’t…

“- Sanne?”

Oh my god. I guess it is possible. And it is the biggest coincidence I ever had in my life. It’s so weird to run into a friend in a country so far from home and it took us both a few moments to realize it.

And not only did we run into each other, we were taking the same bus, to the same place.

So we spent the next day together, riding a motorbike across some of the country. The views were beautiful and the freedom that comes with driving through such rough terrain yourself, with nobody telling you where to go, was wonderful.

We had a great day and saw a lot, and after having dinner in the evening, we went our separate ways.

Thanks for the fun day, Tom! Maybe I’ll see you somewhere in Europe the world again.

 

 

Extreme highs and extreme lows

Traveling is one giant emotional rollercoaster. 

I try to limit my posts to one a day, so you guys don’t get overwhelmed with jealousy ;) I know you all prefer the one-photo updates and that’s fine. We’re all busy people. 

But this is one of those things that happens and needs to be put into words right away, otherwise the feeling will be forgotten. And even now I’m struggling to capture it in a blog. 

This morning I arrived in Siem Reap with another nightbus. This time I was well prepared. I brought an extra t-shirt and a sweater against the cold airconditioning. I even brought socks! I had also managed to get some food beforehand, but when I got to the busstation, I realized it was the same buscompany as my ride from HCMC to Phnom Penh. I was not happy. 

Turned out the bus was a lot better. This time there were actual matrasses and pillows, the only downside was that you had to sleep in the bed with one other person, but I ended up with a tiny Cambodian, so that was fine. 

I had everything I needed to sleep well, and yet still, I didn’t. The only time I slept was at the end of the busride, and I had to come from a place far away when we arrived and had to get out of the bus. At this point it was 6 AM. 

When I arrived at my hostel I couldn’t check in yet. Of course I was way too early. I sank down on one of the couches and just read a bit, slept a bit, and was in excellent company. 

  
After a while I could check in, and by that time, it was already afternoon. And I don’t know why exactly, but I was feeling strange. I felt like I should be tired, because I hadn’t really slept, but I wasn’t really. However, I kept convincing myself that I had to be tired. 

The day passed by and in the afternoon I could take a shower and I ate something in the hostel. But basically I just read all day, with a lot of naps in between, and a lot of kitty-cuddling. 

Siem Reap is famous for the Angkor Wat temples, and I had plans to go there by myself, with a motorbike. But I learned here that that was not possible, due to some sort of law or regulation. So I had to get a tuktuk, but worse, I needed people to fill the tuktuk. Not only so I wouldn’t have a lonely day, but also because it would save me money. 

So I just hung out at the bar, not looking like my shiny self, wallowing in self-pity. 

And there have been a few of these moments. When traveling, you need to take care of everything yourself. And sometimes I feel lazy or a bit down, causing everything to spiral into something so much worse than what it has to be. 

This was also the case today. There was no disaster. I was still traveling and being awesome. I just had to get up and fix the problem. 

But I didn’t. 

Instead, I met up with a guy from CS, that I had been texting with. He also just arrived and he’s Indonesian, which made him awesome right away. 

And he also wanted to go to Angkor Wat tomorrow, and also didn’t have a tuktuk yet. Funny how things just seem to sort themselves out that way. 

We went to a sort of restaurant and sat at a table very close to a guy eating alone. After talking to him for one minute, I discovered he wanted to go to the temples too, tomorrow, and I asked him if he wanted to share a tuktuk. And just like that, the tuktuk was basically full and the price per person went from 15USD to 5USD. 

And I made two awesome new friends. 

  
We had a great evening together, the perfect ending to a sucky day. And I’m sure we’ll have heaps of fun tomorrow. 

(I know this wasn’t my best written blog so far, as I am actually typing it all on my phone. But this was more about capturing the moment than anything else, so thanks for sticking with it.)

Phnom Penh

This capital city of Cambodia has plenty to offer to enjoy yourself for two days. One of the most popular things to do here is to visit the Killing Fields (which I wrote about here). But also in Phnom Penh itself are some sights. You can visit the Palace, or go to the National Museum. Or, you can be like me, and just walk around the city, which gives you the chance to stumble upon a temple and a few other iconic views that make for a few lovely pictures.

 

A few snapshots from Vietnam

All of these photographs were taken in Ho Chi Minh City (formerly known as Saigon) in Vietnam.

As you’ll notice, a lot of the famous buildings in Ho Chi Minh City look European, because before they were in war with the USA, they were occupied by the French.

You’ll see some photos of the city life, but I also visited a park where they had some sort of flower exhibition.

Pictures of Cambodia will soon follow!

 

 

It’s not all fun and games

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At first glance, this is just another tree. A very beautiful tree, one might even say.
Until you hear what it was used for.
This tree was used to smash in the heads of children, and after that they would be tossed in the mass grave beside it.

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A beautiful building. On each corner is a Garuda (a kind of bird) and a dragon. They are eternal enemies, and when they appear somewhere together, it means peace.
And this is what’s inside the building.

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A courtyard that looks lovely and peaceful. But inside these buildings, people were tortured until they admitted to things they had no idea about.

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Another tree. This one was used to put speakers on. For a party? No. To cover the sounds of people screaming while they were being brutally murdered.

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This may just look like a traditional offering place, and it is. But if you look at the box behind it, you will see the bones that came up from the grounds years later. Bones of all the people that were murdered and buried at the Killing Fields in Cambodia. During the period when Pol Pot decided he wanted to rule the world with some kind of idea of the perfect species (sounds like someone else we know from the history books?) he killed many Cambodians. They were all tortured and questioned about possible affiliations with spies. Even if they were innocent, they would be killed, because “it is better to kill an innocent, than to let a guilty person live”.
Really?
Really?!?!

As you can imagine it was quite a shocking day. The things that were done and the stories that were gathered at these memorial sites were unbelievable. Not only were innocent people tortured and killed, also babies and children. They didn’t want to take the risk of them seeking revenge later and made this clear with the saying “it’s better to pick out a weed by its roots”.

The one thing that really stuck with me the most was a quote from one of the survivors. A few people lived because they had skills that the Khmer Rouge needed. There was a mechanic, and a painter, and a few others… So they lived longer than the rest and because liberation came just in time, some of them are still alive today. And one of them said that because of their hobby, or their job, they stayed alive. And now he was reaching out to the world and telling his story, to prevent things like this from happening again, but also to encourage the youth to develop their skills, because one day…

It just might save your life.

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What to expect from a bus ride from Vietnam to Cambodia

Nothing.
That’s the short answer. Because if you expect nothing, it can only be better. Actually no, scratch that. Expect the worst.

Let me paint you a picture.

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I could do this verbally, but I’ve heard that a picture says more than a thousand words and there are no thousand words to describe the bus that I was in when I wanted to go from Ho Chi Minh City to Phnom Penh in Cambodia.

I booked my ticket at one of the many tour operators on the street where my hostel was located. I don’t remember the name, because there was only one name in Ho Chi Minh that I could remember and that was the one of the main market where they sell the souvenirs, for no reason other than that it was the easiest one. But Vietnamese is not a language I will ever understand, so I could not remember anything.

They said to be at their office at 23.15, and we would leave at 23.45. I already knew that 23.15 would be very early, so eventually I arrived at 23.20. I’m such a rebel.

Of course, when my phone told me it was 23.45, there was still nobody there. Oh, and the office was closed, but I knew the busses stopped on the other side of the street. I know I should not have had any expectations, but during my days there I had already seen some busses drive by and they looked really comfortable. Chairs that could recline, soft lighting and individual seats.

Around 0.00 a big yellow bus that did not have the name of the bus company I was supposed to go with, stopped very close to me. I decided to ask if by any chance they were my ride. I showed them the ticket and I didn’t really get a confirmation, but they just gestured that I could get in if I wanted to. I asked around frantically to at least assure myself that the bus would be going to Phnom Penh, and it was. So, I handed in my passport, paid the fee for the visa and gave them my backpack, when I got in.

You had to climb the stairs to go in and the sight when you arrived upstairs was something else. A few of my fellow travelers had been in several sleeping busses and they said this one was the ghetto of sleeping busses. Well… That was promising.

I hopped on one of the beds and laid down, trying for a long time to find a comfortable position. In the meantime, I was joined by a guy and while we were laughing about the shadiness of it all, I actually felt good, because I knew this was going to be one of those awful backpacker experiences I had heard so much about. Sometimes I’m too positive for my own good.

After talking with the guy for a few minutes, I distinguished a slight Dutch accent, so I asked him where he’s from, and what do you know? The Netherlands. So we continued in our native tongue and quickly realized that we had both been in Indonesia for almost half a year. He had been there for his studies, and was in Yogyakarta, not Jakarta, like me. We swapped some experiences while the bus driver started on our trip. The lights were turned off pretty quickly and because of the lack of space I got up close and personal with this guy from Rotterdam who I had just met, while we were both trying to catch some shut-eye.

Emphasis being on trying.

For me anyway, the Dutchie next to me was snoring like the sound the bus was making while driving. Even my favorite sleeping music couldn’t get me to fall asleep and it was 3 AM when we came to a stop. A full stop.

I had heard about it, and I knew it was going to happen, but it still seemed ridicilous. We left at 0.00 and had reached the border in three hours. The border… opens at 6 AM. So we were going to be standing still for three hours. I saw a few people sitting up in their beds and I just knew they were thinking what I was thinking…
Can we please go to the toilet?

This didn’t seem like something the driver and his buddy had contemplated, because when I ventured outside of my bed, I noticed that the entire aisle was filled with our bags and suitcases. When did that happen?

I looked and was dreading the prospect of climbing all this stuff to get out, but my bladder was torturing me relentlessly and so I moved out.
I asked a girl in my area if she needed to go also, and together we went for it. The way to get out is pictured below. My leg muscles are still a little sore (because we had to go out at least two times more – and back in).

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When I got out, I felt good to know I was not alone, because about ten more people stepped outside. We faced the warm night air, and while typing this I realize I forgot to mention something very distressing about this trip.

The cold.

They were blasting the airconditioning like they were trying to recreate Antartica and everybody was shivering in their seats (even though they provided us with thoughtful blankets that were too small to cover the body of a child, let alone adults).
So the warmth was welcome. We all ran off in different places to find a private place to relieve ourselves

I popped a squat at the border crossing between Vietnam and Cambodia.
And I can only assume I am not the first.

We faced the jungle gym again when we got back inside and I was so relieved. I was comfortable, I didn’t have to pee anymore and I was warm again because of the nightly exercise.

Yet my dear friend sleep did not decide to grace me with a visit that night.
So I lay and listened to music and let my mind wander to all the places my mind decided to go.

And before you know it (no, I’m kidding. It took forever and I was waiting for the moment for three hours), the bus was moving again.
And I had to pee… Again.

Nobody knew what to expect, which you could say makes these trips all the more fun. Or at least more adventurous.

After a while somebody came up to our beds and yelled something. I didn’t know what, but some people were getting up and getting out. Great… More climbing. But I’d gotten the hang of it by then and was out before I knew it. Time to cross the border.
But first I ran in the other direction when I saw a sign saying there was a toilet present.

We stood around for a while, waiting for who knows what, and then we could pass the immigration officer who did not seem all that pleased to have a job that made him wake up before the sun had risen. He flipped through my passport and gestured for me to move on.

Because I have lived in Indonesia for five months, the one thing I have learned and is ingrained in my current life, is to smile. So I smiled at the officer and thanked him, but he did not return the favor and just focused on something more interesting behind me.

I looked through my passport and saw an exit stamp for Vietnam, one more lovely addition to an already large collection of art pieces in my little book of life. But I had expected a little more, namely a new stamp that would remind me I had gone to Cambodia.
Later, we realized that this was just the Vietnamese border and we still had to cross the actual Cambodian border.
Guess what that means…
Yep, more climbing in and out of the bus.

But eventually we also lined up at the immigration officer who was in charge of the stream of travelers wanting to enter Cambodia and when I smiled and thanked him, I actually got back a small smile. I noticed my fellow travelers were tired and exhausted, like me, and with that had lost their manners. I was glad to be rewarded for not forgetting mine.

At this point, I was really, very tired. And when we got back into the bus, I felt like I could sleep easily. I was told that it would be a six hour drive to Phnom Penh and my cognitive function allowed me to calculate that this meant we had three more hours to go.

Oh, my sweet naive past self.

It turned out to be six. Six more hours! So even though I did sleep for maybe half an hour to an hour, I was still awake for most of it and just listened to music, trying to let Damien Rice and Ludovico Einaudi soothe me.
And even though they soothed, they did not make me sleep.

Finally we seemed to arrive somewhere and after paying too much for a tuktuk (which is really all part of the Asian experience, I would say), I arrived at my hostel.
And I slept the day away.

And yeah, I could make myself feel bad about that, because I am not making the most out of the experience and I am wasting an entire day. But really, it was the damn Ankor Express Yellow ugly ass bus that wasted my day and I refused to feel guilty for wanting a nap. However, I had not anticipated sleeping through my alarm that was set for 3 o’clock and waking up at 5 instead.

But we live and learn. And we deal with it.
I’ll explore the city tomorrow.

And yeah, to all those friends of mine who are reading this and wondering: what about the guy? “Was dat niet wat voor jou, Sanne?”

We went our separate ways after getting off of the bus, because that’s just how these things work. And that is more than okay.

Why touristic tours may not be my cup of tea

Because they just want money, that’s why. And when they get money, they want more money.

So I don’t know if I really won’t do any tours anymore. They are a great opportunity to see some sides of a country, mostly of the nature. If the price is right, I may be tempted again in the future. But my current experience is not great. I did two tours in Tenerife more than a year ago and those were not great experiences either. I guess I thought Asia was different.

I booked a tour to the Mekong Delta. It was just for one day, and while I was waiting for the bus in the hostel, I already met somebody who was also doing the tour alone. In the bus somebody casually mentioned that it was the fanciest bus they had been in in Asia and yeah, the bus was comfortable. The seats were a bit small, but there was airco and the chairs reclined, so I guess that’s okay.

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The first stop was at a place where there were three huge buddha statues. Great to take pictures with and the tour guide gave us a riddle. I didn’t realize we could win something, and by the time I did, somebody else already shot up to answer the question.
There were three buddha’s and they represented the past, the present and the future. The huge smiling chubby buddha was the present. The question was which one was the past and which one the future. Well, I would have guessed wrong, because the lying down buddha was the future and the standing buddha was the past.

We continued on the bus and ended up at a small harbor, where we got on a boat. We saw a bit of the waterfront there and eventually got off somewhere for lunch. There were many options to buy something extra but the basic lunch was included.

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Coconut house

After this lunch we went to a place where they made coconut candy. Would be great if we could make some ourselves, but we could just watch the people do it and guess what, we could even buy it afterwards! I didn’t, but I was shortly tempted by a coconut that was turned into an amazing little statue of three monkeys. I decided I could make do with a picture of it. They had many more things made out of coconut, including an entire house.

We also tried some coconut whiskey and you could take a picture with a snake, which seemed very random and strengthened our belief that this trip was very touristic. After that we continued on by small boats, to the next stop.

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What was interesting and a little annoying is that they basically asked for a tip everywhere, when actually, we already paid for the tour and shouldn’t have to pay extra during the tour. Everything was supposed to be included.

Which made it weird that when one guy offered the tour guide a tip in the end, he refused it.

The small boats were very cute and fun to go on, while sailing through a mangrove-like river. But it was a very short trip and when we got off, we sat down again to try some sort of tea. The day started to feel a bit like a tasting and when I asked the guy that sort of hung out with our small group if he had a good time, he said: “I just don’t understand why we are here…”

Me neither. I could have done with more sightseeing and less tasting of stuff.

But the people I was with made the day more fun. Besides the girl from my hostel, who was Israeli, by the way, I hung out with two girls from Germany and a guy from the USA, which was a nice group.

After we drank the tea the tour guide announced another opportunity to win a price. Well, I wasn’t gonna let this one pass me by, but when I heard the challenge, I was sure I would win them without any problem.
He said you could taste some fruit and if you could identify three of them, I would win some chopsticks made out of coconut. Great! Challenge accepted.
So, after being blindfolded and tasting five kinds of fruit, I won the price. I stupidly forgot what I was tasting when eating jackfruit… my mind went completely blank. And he had me try a fruit of which even he didn’t know the English name, so that one was hard too. But I easily identified the watermelon (duh), dragon fruit and the guava.
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I shared my price with my daily friends and gave them all a pair of chopsticks. After this we walked back to the bus that had already driven to a new pick-up point and we headed back to Ho Chi Minh City.

So just to be clear, I do like what the tours can offer, but I feel like the authenticity is nowhere to be found and everything is just way too focused on tourists. That’s why I love meeting people through couchsurfing. It just gives you a chance to meet locals and hear about their daily life.

But one thing these tours definitely know how to do, is make sure you get some amazing pictures to capture the day.

Getting to know the world

I have been traveling for two and a half days now. And already I feel much wiser.

IMG_4205_FotorOne thing I have noticed very quickly, is that when you travel, you’re not just getting to know the country you are visiting. Sure, you will see a lot of the country and maybe you will even talk to people who live there (although you will have to put in some effort for this).
But you
will meet other travelers too. And they are the ones that will expand your knowledge of the world.
In two days, I have met:

  • An American girl who told me that hairdressers in New York have different specialities, so it is rare for the same hairdresser to cut and dye your hair.
  • A British girl who didn’t really teach me anything, but was a nice addition to the company.
  • An Israeli girl that has just finished the army. She told me that
    everybody in Israel has to go into the army, it’s obligatory. After that, they often go traveling. After that, maybe they will start university, so their student body is on average probably much older.
  • Two Italian girls that study in Beijing
  • Another Israeli girl that tried to explain some of the troubles of their country to me, while also emphasizing that the story will differ, depending on who you ask. She also had an American boyfriend. He is Jewish and was also in the Israeli army, as apparently you can volunteer as well. Fascinating.
  • Two German girls that were just a lot of fun!
  • Two guys from the UK that look like Ken.
  • An American guy to whom I tried to explain what rapeseed is, without knowing the name in English (I googled it afterwards). He had no idea what it was and we hope I haven’t revealed some big country secret about that (and am now announcing it on the world wide web).
  • An Indian woman that told me all about India and Hinduism. There are so many gods that use energy from each other and therefor partly consist of each other that it kept us going for more than an hour.IMG_9257_Fotor

Besides this I have met many other people, but I haven’t talked to them all in great detail. I have met up with three Vietnamese people here so far (one of which wanted to date me desperately…) and got to know more about this country as well.

I love meeting all these people, because not only do they teach me answers to many questions in Trivial Pursuit, they also have so many inspiring life stories.
The woman from India was a consultant and she had lived abroad for more than 16 years, as well in New York as in London. Some of the people here have been traveling for a very long time and have seen so much of the world, or they have jobs I couldn’t even dream about.
If I thought my life was awesome now, I have since then realized that it can be even more amazing. And it will, without a doubt, become that.